Hey, where did we go, Days when the rains came ? Down in the hollow ("Brown Eyed Girl Van Morrison)

Belfast, Friday 29^th May

We started with a lovely continental breakfast in the most beautiful dining room yet. Followed by a Black Cab Tour hosted by Peter. As with the 3, 4, 5 or so tour guides we have had in Ireland Peter was well researched and we all equally enjoyed the sound of his voice and his stories.

Peter took us around the Shankill Road,

The eyes of the gunman in this mural follow you

Falls Road, Bombay Road to see the murals

 and to 48 “peace” walls which divide the city of Belfast into primarily English/Scottish precincts and Irish/Catholic precincts These walls are gated, and at various times between 5pm and 9pm the gates are locked, every night - in order to prevent mayhem occurring between warring young gangs (or at least to prevent the idea that there may be an opportunity for any disenfranchised youth to fight).

The "Peace Wall" near Falls Road

Justin Bieber signed the wall

so did we

Amongst the moving images, shrines and monuments built mainly to people to people who have lost their lives over the past 100 years since Ireland became "partitioned" was the scene within the Shaankill Road protestant precinct - a gigantic bonfire was being prepared each side was about 20-30 metres long made of blue and red painted pellets and will probably be the same in height.

Everybody contributes their burnables to the pile. This event commenced in the time of William of Orange in the 1600's when he wanted to conscripts to his army. He did this by lighting huge bonfires in the countryside to attract people. This one will be light sometime in July.

Peter is a friendly who said, “G’day” to all he met and explained how difficult it was to get a true picture of what was happening in Ireland as the English Intelligence had undercover agents planted deep in each side. In the IRA one of the most senior operatives was an English Intelligence officer who had ordered the deaths of over 30 IRA soldiers on account they were “supposedly” informers for the English army (google, “stake knife”). The English & Scottish who settled here 400 years ago still only marry those in their community and have their own shops and services, likewise the Irish. As Mary says, it feels as if it is very anxious peace.

Then, for a total contrast we toured the areas where Van Morrison lived and to the place names which pop-up in his songs like, “Cypress Avenue",

 the Hollows,

 Hyndford Rd, where Van was born, Beechie River and North Road Bridge”.

Peter then dropped us at the Titanic Centre. An amazing dockside development and tour of the 9 levels or more of Titanic plus information on how the ship was built,

 We took a tour of the Nomadic which was a miniature Titanic in dry dock. This ship has been in service in various roles (as a troop carrier in both world wars), a tender to ferry people from shore to the gigantic “Olympic” class ocean liners (refer Titanic, Britannic and Olympic) which were too big to get into many harbours over her 100 year life.  All the rich and famous have been on-board the Nomadic and were securely protected in “first class” accommodation from having to rub shoulders with the 2^nd class and 3^rd class passengers.

On the way back to the city we stopped for a cup of tea at. "The Dock" a coffee shop, meeting place run by volunteers from both sides and purchases are paid by a volntary donation to their "honesty box". I enjoyed a lovely lamington and Mary had a lentil and bacon soup - just delicious.

Finally, we started our evening at the Morning Star Pub established 1870 or summat with a glass of Guinness and a pint, then we headed off to the oldest longest running pub in Belfast, 

“Kelly’s Cellars”, established 1720 – a wonderful atmosphere with a perfectly pitched soundtrack, surrounded by a huge spectrum profile of society, all very happy.

We were hoping to have a seafood dinner next door at Mourne’s – but it was booked out and the maître’d recommended, “Home”, which was booked out and the maître’d there recommended, “Stix n’ Stones”, likewise, then, “Made in Belfast”, likewise, until we arrived at Howards on Howard Street. We were very fortunate to secure two bar stools on the window and enjoyed perhaps the best meals so far in Ireland, smoked haddock chowder, lamb rump roast and pork belly. Whilst we watched Belfast pass by on a busy main road.

Then on our way home we visited the dome which is look-out built atop a new shopping complex and watched the clouds roll-in over the roof tops.

Belfast feels like an international city but it is small maybe 350,000 people and not crowded.

One last observation about north and south Ireland – there is not a verandah to be seen anywhere but it bloody rains every for 10-15 minutes every hour. Why is there not a one shopfront with a shelter in any city in Ireland??? Because the shopkeepers want you to enter their shops to get out of the rain. But their very cunning plan has failed. “Why?” Do I here you murmur? Because everyone goes into a pub for a quick beer to wait for the shower to pass. HaHa.

Tomorrow we head to Scotland but feel that we have only barely scratched the surface and are just starting to really “get” Ireland and wish we could do another couple of round trips to see more.