May you have the hindsight to know where you've been, the foresight to know where you are going, and the insight to know when you have gone too far (Irish Blessing)

Friday, 22^nd May

Kinsale – we started the day with a grand full Irish breakfast, black pudding and the lot. Then toddled off into town for a look at the lovely shops where we were welcomed with open arms by an ancient biddy who runs the Old Bakery B&B with few large good teeth left in her smile as she explained how she wanted us to take a photo of the family staying with her under her shop sign. “…and where are you from my little darlings?”

“We’re from Melbourne” Mary replied.

“Oh dear, so far from home” she wails, to which Mary responds, “But it does not feel like it” hereupon the old biddy sighs, “Ohhhh” and throws her arms around Mary with a big laugh and a hug. Eventually after the photos have been taken and at least 20 goodbyes and well wishes we continued our walk down the gaily coloured shops lining the narrow streets and laneways to our first appointment with Don and Barry. 

The tour guides who took us and 25 or so other tourists on an historical stroll through Kinsale’s extraordinary history. Full of revolution, pirates and treasures.

At about 1:30pm we commenced our drive along the south west coast of Ireland, firstly to stop and admire the the Old Head of Kinsale". Here at the old head is a big bald rock at the end of a narrrow neck of land - so of course, its obvious a perfect spot for an 18 hole golf course - the Irish love golf and this is the most spectacular golf course in the world. wending our way towards its most southern tip Mizen Head. 

The drive was going well through beautiful fishing hamlets and towns full of glorious barber shops, the sun was high – Irish eyes were smiling and we decided what the heck lets head towards the Ring of Kerry, 150 km away. We reasoned we have got the time because the sun does not set until about 9:30 – 10pm. 

Of course we got side-tracked down little  laneways secretly leading us to old fashioned little barber shops, with their hot towel shaves and “Spanish” influenced styles. As we edged closer the landscape changed from deep green, rich pastures covered in all manner of cows to dry stoned walled paddocks and sheep and finally to  hard grey rocky mountains (& tunnels) before we arrived at the start of the Ring of Kerry.

WOW! Moments Plus! The drive around the coast, The Wild Atlantic Way, is spectacular. They say Ireland is God’s Own Country (Godzone), well, I think the Irish might say it, and if God wanted the perfect picture of a place with lush green pasture, staggering cliffs above peaceful blue bays, pretty little inlets, great rolling hills and rocky mountainous terrain, with the setting sun providing a glorious colourful sky, creating a mist over the mountain tops all merging and blending, then he did that in Kerry. 

Not only God thinks it is gorgeous, so did the prehistoric people who created circular ring forts. These structures are dry stone walls made in a perfect circle that provided protection from foes, marauders, wolves, white walkers, who knows, positioned on a rise, with a fabulous view of the Bay. Prehistoric man likes a good view too.

We drove into the night, night by Aussie time, but still light at 10:00

pm. We stopped for fish and chips at a roadside van, somewhere before Kilgorglin. The man in the van said, “No point closing when the pubs close. This is Ireland, the pubs never close”. We ate the chips (no fish but there were sausages) in the car and drove on, getting back to Kinsale at about 11:30pm, in the dark. We have had fabulous meals everywhere, and even snags and chips in the car were good!