Wednesday 24 June
Well, we woke up feeling like we have been away for five and
half weeks, not keeping still, on the move, thus, a little weary. Dusty in body
and soul. We had a slow breakfast and tried to decide what to do for our second
last day in Madrid, before we head for home on Thursday night. We had tickets
for Reina Sofia Gallery, which houses an enormous collection of 20th
Century art, but the thought of traipsing across town in 38 degrees did dampen
our enthusiasm.
But we headed off, stopping at El Cortes Ingles, a huge
department store, very much like Myer. They say if you can’t find it in ELC,
then it doesn’t exist. Perhaps a slight exaggeration. But there are mid-season
sales on, so one of us was happy to wander around choosing some gifts for our
grandchildren and one was very patient.
The shopping had a slightly restorative effect and we made
our way through town, stopping off to check our tickets for a flamenco show
this evening.
Reina Sofia Museum is enormous. It was originally housed in
Madrid’s first public hospital, but the collection outgrew the space and a
modern four storey extension was added in the 1990s. It faces a large square
and adjoins the Conservatory of Music. Two towers at the front house six glass
elevators, which enabled a great view across Madrid while zooming to the top.
The rooms are large and the artworks are really spaced
apart. Photos were permitted, until you get to “Guernica”, the showpiece of the
whole gallery.
“Guernica” is Picasso’s response to the bombing by German aircraft, at Franco’s request in 1937. It is a powerful, heart wrenching painting, depicting the horror inflicted on mostly civilian women and children. The rooms around it display preparatory drawings, photos, paintings and sculptures.
After we saw “Guernica” we just felt “arted” out – no more
galleries! Just as well, we go home tomorrow.
We got a taxi back to the hotel, conserving the small
reserves of energy left, so that we could have a rest, and enjoy dinner and the
Flamenco Show. Dinner was tapas – veal meatballs, artichokes with ham shavings,
ham and mushroom croquettes, with a vermut and a beer. We are true Madrilenos.
The food in Madrid is fabulous!
The Flamenco Show was in a tiny theatre, with seats arranged
around tables for guest having dinner or tiered seats, if not. We were given a
large glass of sangria and enjoyed the singing, guitars and dance. There is a
similarity between the matador and the male dancer, and the singing is a bit
mournful, like fado, with lots of clapping and “Ole” and “Hola” and other
encouraging sounds.
We have tried to see the “national” dance or theatre in each
country – trad music and dance and an irish play in Ireland, bagpipes in
Scotland, musical comedy in London, people watching in Paris, Fado in Portugal
and Flamenco in Madrid.
Very cultural.
Madrid is a feast, of art, food, architecture, music, and people. It has absolute beauty and culture clashing with the horror of the bullfights. It is a fascinating and contrasting city.
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