The genius was the spirit deified of each person of each city, place or monument. (Ovid)

Tuesday 16^th June

We left our beautiful pousada, rather reluctantly, as it has been the most luxurious and elegant accommodation so far. Everything was just so lovely and we felt very relaxed and comfortable.

 We drove onto Conimbriga, Portugal’s largest Roman site. It covers a huge area, with roads, houses, shops, baths and a mansion, with working fountains. There are many mosaics, and some murals, and a small, well designed museum. We spent about an hour and a half there, and thought it was another unexpected Portuguese delight.

We drove on to Lisbon and eventually returned the hire car. Michael has been magnificent, driving us safely to all the places. It was a little hairy getting to our destination as Karol’s navigation app did not recognise the address we wanted. Nonetheless, we got there, returned the car and got a cab to our apartment. Bernardho, our host, was there to let us in and show us around. The apartment is very big, recently renovated and right in the heart of Baixa, the part of Lisbon rebuilt after the 1755 earthquake; the streets are arranged on a grid in this part of town.

After a bit of a rest, a cold beer, snacks, and a shower, we headed off to explore Lisbon. We walked down to the huge square on the waterfront, which was teeming with life – teenagers, families, tourists, Lisboners. Across the road, right on the water’s edge, were a couple of little bars and deckchairs laid out. One bar is set up in a little boat. We bought some drinks, and sprawled in the deck chairs and watched the naval ships, ferries, sail boats on the gigantic mouth of the River Tejo under the span of the 25^th of April Bridge (same bridge as in San Francisco) in the warm sunshine (something we have not experienced until today) and finally felt we had got to Lisbon.

We wandered up to through the town, were ripped off at the Santa Justa elevator – five euros for a one minute ride and we could not get to the top level – it closes at 8:30. No signs, no information, perhaps it was just that the attendant had had enough. Who knows? However the views from the second top level are fab. Lisbon is very hilly and steep. There are four elevators around the town and it is recommended we use them to go up and then walk back down. Is there anywhere in Europe that is not steep or hilly or has at least 200 steps?

We then walked through an old neighbourhood, Chiado, chose a restaurant with Fado singers and had dinner. Fado is the Portuguese blues, a mix of Piaf like songs, bouzouki like instruments, guitars and older women warbling. Interesting. The singers and musicians sing for a bit, then have a break while we eat, then turn down the lights and start up again. They then come up to the tables and try to sell their CDs.

After dinner we walked back to the apartment, all downhill.